Despite it being the 21st century, mention Sofia or Bulgaria, to the average Westerner, and you either draw up a blank facial expression followed by a despairing ‘Where?’ or a standoffish stance visualizing a grey, drab Iron Curtain communist country.
How different is the reality of this hidden Eastern European gem? Located at the foot of 2209m high Vitosha Mountain, is the historic capital – Sofia, an area of human habitation since at least 7000BC. Sofia, also known by the Ancient Greeks as Serdika and by the Slavs as Sredets, was fondly known as ‘my Rome’ by the Roman Emperor, Constantine the Great.
Located on the Balkan Peninsula between the Adriatic Sea and the Black Sea, the nation has always been part of the important East-West trade routes from the Orient to the Continent.
Beyond the many archaeological sites and museums scattered throughout the capital, other traces of its colourful past can be seen in the array of Baroque, Byzantine and Communist architecture, imposing Russian-like boulevards and also, in its type of national dishes: shkembe chorba (tripe soup), moussaka, grilled meats and shopska salata (finely diced tomatoes, cucumbers, onion, dill, and grated Bulgarian feta cheese).
Yes, the grey Cold-Waresque lego shaped blocs can be seen in the outer suburbs of Lyulyin, Mladost, etc – however, walk around Ploshtat Slaveikov, near Tsum, and Aleksandar Nevski for a different vision of the Old Sofia.
A new Sofia is also emerging in the form of the modern Business Park attracting international recognition as the place to be if you are a start-up or in technology.
In fact, in 2015, Forbes listed Sofia as one of the top 10 places in the world to launch a start-up business, because of the low corporate tax (10%), the extremely fast internet connection speed available – one of the fastest in the world, and the presence of several investment funds, including Eleven Start-up Accelerator, LAUNCHub, and Neveq.
Naturally, after hiking the verdant green trails of Vitosha or pounding the cobblestones of central Sofia, you’ll have whet your appetite or thirst. As a tourist it’s very easy to get drawn into the people watching spots along Boulevard Vitosha, however, I suggest exploring its back streets for better-hidden gems, tastier dishes at a cheaper price too.
- Grozd Restaurant, Tsar Osvoboditel 21
Expect Bulgarian food in a modern restaurant with friendly service. It’s just a short walk from NDK Theatre too.
- Hotel Sense Roof Top Bar, Tsar Osvoboditel 16
For something a little extra special, enjoy sunset cocktails while taking in some stunning views over the grandiose Aleksandar Nevski Church.
- Vodenitzata Restaurant, kv. Dragalevtsi
Step back in time and feel at peace in this hidden traditional Bulgarian etno-restaurant. Dine under the stars in a forest on Mount Vitosha, while a stream cools the interior of the restaurant and your beers as folkloric dances take place on hot coals. Pure magic!
If you can find this cool, deceptive late-night speakeasy, then pick the right key to open the secret door behind the bookshelf, not only will your date or friend be impressed but so will you with its range of cocktails and quality rakija options. Very New York and sexy!
Bulgaria was accepted into the E.U in 2007. Sofia has regular connections with low-cost airlines such as Ryan Air, Wizz Air, and Air Berlin.